Sewing in a zipper feels intimidating but becomes manageable once you use a zipper foot and take it slowly. This covers inserting a standard closed-end zipper into a seam, the kind used on cushions, bags, and skirts.
What you'll need
- A sewing machine with a zipper foot
- A zipper
- Matching thread
- Pins or fabric clips
- An iron
Step by step
- Prepare the seamSew the seam closed where the zipper will go using a long basting stitch, and press the seam allowance open flat with an iron so it lies neatly.
- Position the zipperLay the closed zipper face down along the pressed-open seam allowance on the wrong side, centring the teeth over the seam line. Pin or clip it in place.
- Attach the zipper footSwap your machine's regular foot for the zipper foot, which lets the needle stitch close to the teeth without hitting them.
- Stitch one sideSew down one side of the zipper tape from top to bottom, keeping an even distance from the teeth. Go slowly and keep the fabric flat.
- Stitch the other sideRepeat down the second side. Near the top, pause with the needle down, lift the foot, and slide the zipper pull past so you can stitch a straight line.
- Remove the bastingCarefully unpick the basting stitches that held the seam closed to reveal the working zipper, and give the area a final press.
Handy tips
- Basting the zipper in place by hand first keeps it from shifting while you machine sew.
- Move the zipper foot to whichever side gives the needle clearance before you start each row.
- Go slowly around the zipper pull; rushing there is where most crooked lines happen.
Heads up
- Keep fingers away from the needle when moving the fabric slowly near the zipper pull, as it is easy to sew over a fingertip when your attention is on the teeth.
FAQ
Do I need a special foot to sew a zipper?
A zipper foot makes it much easier because it lets the needle stitch right beside the teeth. You can manage with a regular foot, but the result is usually less neat.
How do I sew past the zipper pull?
Stop with the needle down in the fabric, lift the presser foot, and slide the pull up or down out of the way, then lower the foot and keep going.
Why is my zipper wavy or puckered?
Usually the fabric was stretched or fed unevenly. Keep the zipper flat, avoid pulling the fabric, and basting it first helps a lot.